Barb
Denison Barb
Rosy Barb
Ruby Barb
Tiger Barb
Tinfoil Barb
←Back
Denison Barb
(Puntius denisonii)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallons
Water parameters: 60F-79F, PH 6.5-7.8
Maximum size: 6″
Tank region: Middle dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, active schooling
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, cyclops, algae, mysis, etc. Variety is key for optimal health
Compatibility: Great addition for most larger species community tanks. Should be kept in a group of 6 or more. Avoid timid fish that could get stressed out by this fish’s activity level.
Extra: Also known as the Roseline Shark, the Denison Barb is a highly sought after fish. Relatively uncommon, usually wild caught, and with striking colors; makes this fish come with a hefty price tag. They are usually priced between $20-$25 each, which adds up when you keep a school! Regardless of this price, people still desire to keep this beauty; and who could resist? They are mild mannered and make an amazing addition. They are large enough to work as a target/dither fish and can make most larger species aquariums interesting. They are perfect as a school in a discus tank. As stated, they are a schooling fish that should have 6 or more (more being ideal) with plenty of room to swim. Use caution with live plants as they can become uprooted. This species is also accustomed to highly oxygenated water, as well as weekly water changes are a must, as they cannot tolerate poor water conditions.
Rosy Barb
(Puntius conchonius)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallon
Water parameters: 74-79° F, KH 4-10, pH 6.0-7.0
Maximum size: 6″ in wild, realistically 2″-3″ in captivity
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Semi-Aggressive, active shoaling
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Community
Extra: The rosy barb is an excellent choice for beginners. It is hardy and versatile options for tankmates. It is important to keep this fish in a group of at least 5 or more to reduce aggression and fin nipping behavior.
Ruby Barb
(Puntius nigrofasciatus)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 20 gallon
Water parameters: Temp 72F-79F, PH 6.0-7.0
Maximum size: 2.5″
Tank region: Mid-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, active shoaling
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. though it is important to have algae included in their diet.
Compatibility: Semi-aggressive and larger peaceful community
Extra:This hardy barb is less nippy than it’s cousin, the Tiger barb. They can be kept in a peaceful community tank, though they may not work with smaller species such as neon tetra. It is important to keep this fish in a group of at least 5 or more to reduce aggression and fin nipping behavior
Tiger Barb
(Puntius tetrazona)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallons
Water parameters: 72F-79F,
Maximum size: 3″
Tank region: Mid-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, active shoaling
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Other similar sized community fish. Avoid slow moving, timid, and/or long flowing finned fish
Extra: This playful and active fish is a popular choice for beginners ready to try a semi-aggressive fish. They should be in a group of 5 or preferably more, which will reduce aggression and fin nipping. They are a versatile fish that can be kept with many species, though use caution when housing with smaller species or fish with long fins.
Tinfoil Barb
(Barbonymus schwanenfeldii)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 100 gallons
Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 6.3-7.5
Maximum size: 14″
Tank region: Mid dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, cyclops, algae, mysis, etc. Vegetable matter should be included in their diet.
Compatibility: Can handle aggressive species as long as kept in a school. Avoid small species that can be eaten. Avoid overly timid species. Should be kept in a group of 5 or more.
Extra: The Tinfoil Barb is a large schooling fish that would make an excellent choice as a dither/target fish. They are well rounded and can work with most larger species of fish. What they lack in color, they make up for in character. This fish is extremely active and will add plenty of movement to your aquarium. Heavy filtration is a must as this fish can be quite messy, though they are fairly hardy. 100 gallons is the minimum when keeping this fish full grown, but ideally they will need more. A secure lid is also recommended since this fish is known for being a jumper.
Back to the top
Betta
Betta splendens
←Back
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 1 gallon
Water parameters: 72F-85F, PH 6.0-8.0
Maximum size: 3″
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Carnivore based diet consisting of pellet specially designed for betta, freeze dried and/or frozen bloodworms.
Compatibility: Peaceful community, avoid overly active tank mates or fish that will nip fins. Males should be kept solo per tank. Females can be housed together with caution.
Called the “Siamese Fighting Fish,” the betta has been bred much differently than it’s original purpose. This gaudy little fish comes in a variety of magnificent colors and fin types, making it popular with beginners and experienced alike. While they may not need a filter due to their ability to breath air, it is recommended to have a heater in the tank; particularly if you don’t live in a warm climate. Contrary to belief, bettas can be housed with other fish, though males should be kept apart from one another. A single fish can be housed in a 1 gallon tank (though ideally more) making it a perfect choice for someone who has limited space.
Bichir
Delhezi Bichir
Ornate Bichir
Senegal Bichir
←Back
Delhezi Bichir
(Polypterus delhezi)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallon long
Water parameters: 76F-86F, PH 6.0-8.0
Maximum size: 17″
Tank region: Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Predatory though relatively peaceful
Diet: Carnivorous. Live or frozen meaty foods such as prawns, mussels, worms, etc. May tank a pellet that is carnivore based.
Compatibility: Larger species that will not fit in it’s mouth. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates that will pick on the slow moving bichir.
Extra: This species of fish is one the last suriving relatives of an ancient species dating back to the triassic period. This living dinosaur fish is an extremely hardy species, though it may not be a wise choice for beginners. Getting over a foot long means that it is only suitable for large aquariums as well as large tank mates. This fish is relatively peaceful, though it is an 
opportunist and cannot be trusted around fish that can fit in it’s mouth. Like Ananbantoids, this fish needs to have the water level at least 1″ from the rim so that it can have access to oxygen or it is at risk of drowning. This fish may not take pellets and should have it’s diet accommodated for to ensure it’s receiving proper nutrition; which is why this fish has received a 2/5 in difficulty. Bichirs need a tightly covered lid with no holes and avoid plants as they can be unrooted.
Ornate Bichir
(Polypterus ornatipinnis)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 180 gallon long for adults
Water parameters: 76F-86F, PH 6.0-8.0
Maximum size: 25″ though can reach 27″
Tank region: Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Predatory though relatively peaceful
Diet: Carnivorous. Live or frozen meaty foods such as prawns, mussels, worms, etc. May tank a pellet that is carnivore based.
Compatibility: Larger species that will not fit in it’s mouth. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates that will pick on the slow moving bichir.
Extra: The ornate bichir is considered one of the most attractive of the bichirs and it also get’s quiet large. This species of fish is one the last suriving relatives of an ancient species dating back to the triassic period. This living dinosaur fish is an extremely hardy species, though it may not be a wise choice for beginners. Getting over a foot long means that it is only suitable for large aquariums as well as large tank mates. This fish is relatively peaceful, though it is an opportunist and cannot be trusted around fish that can fit in it’s mouth. Like Ananbantoids, this fish needs to have the water level at least 1″ from the rim so that it can have access to oxygen or it is at risk of drowning. This fish may not take pellets and should have it’s diet accommodated for to ensure it’s receiving proper nutrition; which is why this fish has received a 2/5 in difficulty. Bichirs need a tightly covered lid with no holes and avoid plants as they can be unrooted.
Back to the top
Senegal Bichir
(Polypterus senegalus)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallon long for single adult species
Water parameters: 76F-86F, PH 6.0-8.0
Maximum size: 16″ though usually just under 1′ in captivity
Tank region: Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Predatory though relatively peaceful
Diet: Carnivorous. Live or frozen meaty foods such as prawns, mussels, worms, etc. May tank a pellet that is carnivore based.
Compatibility: Larger species that will not fit in it’s mouth. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates that will pick on the slow moving bichir.
Extra: The Senegal bichir is one of the smaller bichirs and is the most common seen in the hobby. This species of fish is one the last surviving relatives of an ancient species dating back to the triassic period. This living dinosaur fish is an extremely hardy species, though it may not be a wise choice for beginners. Getting over a foot long means that it is only suitable for large aquariums as well as large tank mates. This fish is relatively peaceful, though it is an opportunist and cannot be trusted around fish that can fit in it’s mouth. Like Ananbantoids, this fish needs to have the water level at least 1″ from the rim so that it can have access to oxygen or it is at risk of drowning. This fish may not take pellets and should have it’s diet accommodated for to ensure it’s receiving proper nutrition; which is why this fish has received a 2/5 in difficulty. Bichirs need a tightly covered lid with no holes and avoid plants as they can be unrooted.
Back to the top
Catfish
Chinese Algae Eater
Featherfin Squeaker
←Back
Chinese Algae Eater
(Gyrinocheilos aymonieri)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallons
Water parameters: 74F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5
Maximum size: 10″
Tank region: Bottom dwelling and along sides and decorations
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Algae based diet with algae and sinking wafers
Compatibility: fine in community tank as juveniles, but as they get larger they can harass fish and attempt to eat their slime coats. Avoid slow moving fish such as bichirs, plecos, discus, and angelfish.
Extra: While the Chinese Algae Eater may help with algae issues, there are better options out there. As juvenile, they can help to eliminate some algae. However, as they get older they tend to stop eating algae as much and have been known to get aggressive and bully other fish.
Featherfin Squeaker
(Synodontis eupterus)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallons
Water parameters: 72F-81F, PH 6.5-8.0
Maximum size: 8″
Tank region: Mostly bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi aggressive
Diet: Omnivore based. Scavenger. Will accept high quality pellet or flake as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as mysis, bloodworms, brine, shrimp, etc.
Compatibility: Will work in a variety of different types of communities. Enjoy the company of their own species. Perfect choice for African Cichlid Communities. Avoid timid tank mates.
Extra: The Featherfin Squeaker is part of the synodontis family and are often mistaken for the upsidedown catfish as juveniles. After they reach about 4″ they are easily distinguished with their tall dorsal. They are extremely hardy and can adapt to many parameters making them a good choice for beginners. While they aren’t necessarily aggressive, they can be quite boisterous, sometimes territorial, and are aggressive eaters making them a poor choice to house with timid eaters.
Back to the top
Cichlid, Americas/New World
Acara, Blue
Angelfish
Apistogramma
Discus
Firemouth Cichlid
Honduran Red Point
Keyhole Cichlid
Parrot Cichlid
Rainbow Cichlid
Ram, Angel
Ram, Bolivian
Ram, German Blue
Severum
T-Bar Cichlid
Turquoise Cichlid
Uaru
←Back
Blue Acara
(Aequidens pulcher)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 50 gallon
Water parameters: 74F-84F, PH 6.5-8.0
Maximum size: 6″
Tank region: All over, mostly bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi-Aggressive. Relatively peaceful compared to other cichlid. Males can be territorial.
Diet: High quality flake or pellet with variety of live or frozen foods such as brine, worms, and daphnia
Compatibility: With other similar temperament fish, avoid small fish that it can eat.
Extra: The Blue Acara is a great choice for those wanting to start a cichlid tank. It’s hardy, versatile, and stays a manageable size. Like all cichlid, individual personalities will vary between cichlid. The Blue Acara tends to be one of the more peaceful species. Lots of hiding spots are ideal; though if you decide to use live plants, be sure to choose plants with a sturdy root system or that are floating as the acara tends to dig and unroot delicate plants.
Angelfish
(Pterophyllum sp.)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallons
Water parameters: 75F-83F, PH 5.8-7.0
Maximum size: 6″
Tank region: Upper-mid dwelling
Behavior: Semi Aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Community tank, avoid small fish they possibly can eat. Avoid fin nipping species for obvious reasons. Gourami, bottom dwellers, less aggressive barbs, dwarf cichlid are good choices.
Extra: The angelfish, now considered a cichlid is a great addition to most community tanks. While the angelfish is given a 2/5 on difficulty, they usually still make a wonderful choice for beginners. They are relatively hardy once they have become stable, though they do need very clean water. They can be somewhat adaptable and do best in a more peaceful community with tank mates that will allow this fish to be king of the tank and will not harass and nip at the angel’s long flowing fins. Individuals may vary, but for the most part the angel is a fairly peaceful fish unless it has formed a breeding pair.
Apistogramma
(Apistogramma sp.)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallon
Water parameters: 72F-85F, PH 5.0-7.0, soft
Maximum size: 3.5″
Tank region: Bottom Mid dwelling
Behavior: Peaceful, Conspecific semi-aggressive
Diet: Carnivore mostly. Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Can be kept in peaceful community, though can be aggressive with it’s own species. Recommended to keep a dither fish with them.
Extra: The Apistogramma is an interesting addition to any collector of dwarf cichlid. There are multiple species of Apistogramma all varying slightly with size and temperament, but this is a general guide for their care. A single pair can be kept in a 10 gallon tank, though it is extremely important to keep their water quality up as this fish can be sensitive to nitrates and poor conditions. They do best in a natural environment with slow moving water, lots of caves and hiding, and lower lighting.
Discus
(Symphysodon sp.)
Difficulty: 4/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallon
Water parameters: 82F-86F, PH 5.5-7.0, GH Soft
Maximum size: 6.5″
Tank region: Upper and mid-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Carnivorous. Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. are particularly important to bring out the bold coloration of this fish. There are foods specifically designed for discus such as Hikari Discus Bio-Gold.
Compatibility: Peaceful community. Can be con-specific aggressive.
Extra: This striking fish has colors that can rival saltwater fish. They can come in a variety of different colors, all being equally stunning. These fish need to have exceptionally clean water with some keepers doing daily large water changes to keep this fish happy. Many people keep discus in planted tanks, but it’s important to keep balance when doing this. Plants love nitrates, and discus tend to have a very low tolerance for them, so it can be a bit tricky when keeping both. While discus are relatively peaceful, they can sometimes be aggressive amongst themselves. To resolve this issue, it can be recommended to keep discus in a group of 5 or more to allow them to create a pecking order.
Firemouth Cichlid
(Thorichthys meeki)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallon
Water parameters: 70F-80F, PH 6.5-8.0
Maximum size: 5″
Tank region: Mid-bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, conspecific aggressive, can be territorial especially when breeding
Diet: High quality flake or pellet with variety of live or frozen foods such as brine, worms,
Compatibility: Will work in a tank with other similar sized cichlids, can work in larger community tank with fish such as larger molly and gourami.
Extra: The Firemouth is a medium sized cichlid that is a great option for beginners looking to try out cichlids. They are extremely hardy, adaptable to water parameters (as long as they aren’t extreme,) and are somewhat diverse for tank mates. While individual personalities can vary greatly among Firemouth; they have been known to be mild enough to house in community tanks, as well as be tough enough to hold their own with larger cichlid. The Firemouth’s downfall is usually it’s stubbornness and bravery. This attribute can get the Firemouth into trouble as it may pick a fight it can’t finish. For the most part though, their aggression is directed only to same or similar looking species. 50 gallons is a tank minimum for full grown Firemouth; but since they are slow growing, they may work in a 30 gallon long until they reach around 3″. Keep in mind this may heighten aggression, however.
Honduran Red Point
(Amatitlania Siquia)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallons
Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0
Maximum size: 5″
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Peaceful, semi-aggressive, can be territorial
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Other medium sized american cichlids, or in a community with fish that have similar requirements.
Extra: This beautiful little cichlid is relatively undemanding and a great option for those looking to keep American cichlids. It is much more peaceful than it’s relative, the convict cichlid. Sometimes mistaken for the convict cichlid, it can be distinguished by it’s striking blue and green hues and smaller size. Expect to have a surplus of fry if you keep a male and a female as they are prolific breeders. Female can be identified by their orange bellies and the males will have a red caudal fin.
Keyhole Cichlid
(Cleithracara maronii)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallon
Water parameters: 72F-81F, PH 6.0-8.0
Maximum size: 5″
Tank region: Mid-bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Peaceful community. Can be housed with most other calm fish, avoid small fish with full grown keyhole as they can be eaten.
Extra: The keyhole is a great choice for beginners since it is a forgiving and adaptable fish. This hardy fish can adapt to many water parameters, though extremes should be avoided and nitrates should be kept to a minimum. While most keyhole are fairly mild mannered, an individual’s temperament can vary.
Parrot Cichlid
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 50 gallons
Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-8.0
Maximum size: 8″
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Avoid overly aggressive fish
Extra: The parrot cichlid, also known as the blood parrot, is actually a man-made hybrid created by multiple different cichlid species. It is speculated this hybrid may include severum, red devil, midas, synspilum, and/or convict cichlid but it has not been confirmed. The Blood Parrot is known for being interactive with their owners and are endeared with their likeness to goldfish. They are highly sought after, particularly in the asian culture and are quite popular.
There is controversy surrounding the blood parrot. This fish was created to intentionally look deformed and because of this, they can have many health issues. Many blood parrots cannot open or close their mouths which makes it especially important not to keep them with more aggressive fish as they cannot defend themselves. They can have spinal issues, swim bladder issues, and other health issues due this hybridization. Many parrots are also sterile, though they have been known to cross breed with other species.
While I tend to have a neutral stance on the subject, many keepers have boycotted the blood parrot due to believing it is unethical. I will not attempt to sway your view on this, but instead encourage you to do your own research and come to your own opinions on this subject.
Rainbow Cichlid
(Archocentrus multispinosus)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 50 gallon
Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0
Maximum size: 5″
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Avoid overly aggressive fish. Can be housed with smaller peaceful fish.
Extra: The rainbow cichlid is a great choice for beginners looking to start with cichlids that aren’t overly aggressive. They are fairly hardy and adaptable, though it is important to keep up with their water quality. While they are best suited in a 50 gallon or more; a pair could be kept in a 30 gallon. A heavily decorated tank, sandy or muddy substrate, with a moderate light and water flow is an ideal environment for this fish.
Angel Ram
(Papiliochromis ramirezi)
Difficulty: 4/5
Tank minimum: 20 gallon
Water parameters: 76F-84F, PH 6.0-7.5, GH Soft
Maximum size: 2″
Tank region: Mid to Bottom-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Community. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates
Extra: Also known as the Angel Ram, the Balloon Ram, is a man made fish created from the German Blue Ram. Very similar in appearance, the Angel Ram can be distinguished by it’s shorter body and rounded belly. They can be kept in a community setting with non-cichlids or other peaceful dwarf cichlid, and can be kept solo or in a pair. Like the Blue Ram, the Angel Ram is sensitive to water parameters. In fact, due to the Angel Ram being a malformation it can be more difficult with it’s care since it’s prone to more issues. They require softer water which can be accomplished with RO water, plants, and/or driftwood. Avoid rocks and gravel that can raise PH such as those containing limestone. Plenty of hiding with floating plants are the surface to diffuse light is ideal, as well.
Back to the top
Bolivian Ram
(Mikrogeophagus altispinosus)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallons
Water parameters: 72-79F, PH 6.5-7.5
Maximum size: 3.5″
Tank region: Bottom to mid-dwelling
Behavior: Peaceful, Conspecific Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Works well in peaceful community tanks, but can hold themselves with larger fish that aren’t too overly aggressive. Can be mildly aggressive with same species
Extra: This little ram is a great alternative to the german ram. While they may not be as visually striking, they are much hardier than their relative. They are fairly undemanding and accepting of many species of fish. If you decide to keep more than one bolivian, it’s important to give them enough territory to avoid aggression. If you can accommodate their territory needs, it can be quite rewarding seeing them interact with one another. A heavily decorated tank, preferably with live plant, moderate to lower lighting, and some driftwood is ideal and in turn you will have a great little fish that will be eager to greet you.
German Blue Ram
(Papiliochromis ramirezi)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 20 gallon
Water parameters: 76F-84F, PH 6.0-7.5, GH Soft
Maximum size: 2″
Tank region: Mid to Bottom-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Community. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates
Extra: The German Blue Ram is a dwarf cichlid that is best kept in a community with non-cichlids or other peaceful dwarf cichlids and can be kept solo or in a pair. They can be sensitive to water parameters and softer water is required. This can be accomplished with RO water, plants, and/or driftwood. Avoid rocks and gravel that can raise PH such as those containing limestone. Plenty of hiding with floating plants are the surface to diffuse light is ideal, as well
Severum
(Heros sp.)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallon
Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 6.0-7.0
Maximum size: 12″
Tank region: Top to Mid-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc as well as fresh veggies like cucumber, lettuce, and peas.
Compatibility: Can be housed with larger community fish or cichlid with similar temperaments.
Extra: The Severum is generally a mild mannered cichlid who can usually work in a community tank so long as it’s tank mates aren’t small enough to fit in it’s mouth. They are known for being quite destructive with live plants so caution should be used. While classifications are constantly changing, here are a few different types of Severum you should know:
Heros Efasciatus (Green or Gold Severum, most common)
Heros Appendiculatus (Turquoise Severum)
Heros Notatus (Black Spotted Severum)
Heros sp. Rotkeil (Redheaded Severum)
Heros Severus ( Mouthbrooder Severum)
The Efasciatus, or Green Severum, is the most commonly seen Severum in the trade. It can come in a few different varieties with green and gold being the most seen. The Heros Appendiculatus, or Turquoise Severum, has now been reclassified under Efasciatus, as well. Also known as the Banded Severum, they display 8-9 bars laterally which will usually disappear with age. This species gets larger and has more girth than the Severus, reaching upwards of 8″-12″. A 75 gallon should be an absolute minimum for an adult and 100 gallons being a more realistic size, especially when keeping more than one.
The Rotkeil is one of the more colorful Severum species and tends to be more expensive. They are not officially classified as of yet, so they are often labeled as Heros sp. Rotkeil. There is debate on the best way to properly identify young Rotkeil and many will argue that the Rotkeil is one of the few species that will have 8 bars. While this advice will be helpful and does seem to ring true, it is still unreliable unfortunately since it’s not always a guarantee. The best way to ensure you are getting the correct fish is to only purchase juveniles from a reputable source.
The Heros Severus, the true mouthbrooder, is often mistaken with the Efasciatus. The Severus, however, is rarely available in the trade. It is more slender and are usually seen no larger than 8″. Therefore, they can be housed in nothing less than a 55 gallon or larger. The Heros Notatus, or Black Spotted Severum, is another uncommon Severum hardly seen in the trade, though they are gaining popularity in recent years.
T-Bar Cichlid
(Cryptoheros sajica)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 30 for a single fish, 60 gallon for a pair
Water parameters: 76F-80F, PH 7.2-7.8
Maximum size: 5″
Tank region: Mid to bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi aggressive, con-specific aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. A single Sajica can be housed in a community. Can be aggressive with same species. Can hold it’s own with larger, more aggressive fish.
Extra: Also known as the T-bar cichlid, the Sajica is a relatively peaceful medium size cichlid. It is ideal to keep them with other fish of similar size and temperament, but it is fairly adaptable and can live in a community or with larger cichlid. It is not recommended to keep more than one sajica in a community though, as they can become aggressive. They are hardy and can acclimate to most conditions as long as they aren’t extreme.
Turquoise Cichlid
(Astatheros robertsoni)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallons
Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 7.0-8.0
Maximum size: 9″
Tank region: Middle, bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, con-specific aggressive
Diet: Omnivore based, High quality sinking pellet, as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, earthworms, blackworms, and other meat and/or veggie based foods. No floating foods as this species will not go to the surface to eat.
Compatibility: Other species of similar size and peaceful temperament. Other peaceful cichlids. Will not tolerate it’s own species unless they are paired.
Extra: Blue Sifter, False Firemouth, Robertson’s Cichlid, Turquoise Cichlid; this slow grower goes by many names. Often mistaken for the Firemouth at a young age, this fish is not a common one to see in the trade. They are an attractive fish that can be kept with other peaceful cichlid. They are fairly hardy, however, they can be somewhat timid especially with feeding. They will eat much like a geophagus sifting through the sand, which means they will not go to the surface for food. They are also known to be picky and only eating chopped up earthworms, bloodworms, etc. but with some patience and persistence, have been known to take pellet so long as it sinks. They are a fairly mild mannered fish, though have been known to not tolerate their own species unless they are in a very large aquarium.
Uaru
(Uara amphiacanthoides)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 70 gallons
Water parameters: 75F-84F, PH 5.5-7.0
Maximum size: 10″
Tank region: Mid-Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Include leafy greens if housed with live plants to minimize destruction.
Compatibility: Other similar sized fish. Severum, Geos, and other similar sized cichlid are a good choice.
Extra: Also known as the panda uaru, this larger cichlid is a more mild mannered fish compared to other cichilds, but it can still hold it’s own against more aggressive species. While they appreciate a heavily planted tank, they can also be quite destructive so choose your plants wisely and add leafy greens to their diet. Uaru are relatively hardy, but it is still important to keep their water quality up as well, as keep good filtration as they produce a lot of waste.
</a
Back to the top
Cichlid, African
Brichardi Cichlid
Shelldweller, Brevis
Shelldweller, Multis
Shelldweller, Ocellated
←Back
Brichardi Cichlid
(Neolamprologus brichardi)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 20 gallons
Water parameters: 72F-79F, PH 7.8-9.0, GH Hard
Maximum size: 6″
Tank region: Middle to bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi-Aggressive
Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality small cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Be sure to never overfeed.
Compatibility: Other rockdwellers or shelldwellers, can be housed with other species of similar size and temperament.
Extra: The Brichardi is part of the rockdwelling portion of the Neolamprologus family. It is fairly hardy as long as it’s water is kept fairly stable. This species does not do well with larger water changes unless the parameters are fairly similar to their current conditions. It is still up for debate whether or not the Brichardi and the Daffodil are the same species, but for now they are being described as separate species. A 20 gallon is an absolute minimum when keeping a species specific tank, though they need larger if you plan to keep more than one male or a mixed tank. While they can get up to 6″ they are usually seen closer to 4″-5″.
Shelldweller, Brevis
(Lamprologus brevis)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 10 gallons
Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH Hard
Maximum size: 2.5″ males, 1.5″ for female
Tank region: Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Make sure to include veggies such as spirulina, spinach, and/or deshelled peas. Be sure to never overfeed.
Compatibility: Other shelldwellers, smaller rock dwellers, and smaller species with similar size and temperament, avoid overly aggressive tank mates.
Extra: The Brevis is found in Lake Tanganyika and is part of the group called Shelldwellers. The shelldwellers are typically smaller, more peaceful African cichlids. Unlike other shelldwellers, they come from a low density shell location so the males and females can be seen sharing a shell. The Brevis can be kept in a tank as small as 5 gallons for a single fish (though not recommended) or 10 gallons for a pair or a single male and a harem of 3 females. While this is the absolute minimum, they should ideally be kept in a larger aquarium, especially if you plan to house with other tank mates or more than one male. Shells should be provided and sand is recommended. They require highly oxygenated water and heavy filtration and regular water changes is recommended as this species can be sensitive to nitrates and ammonia which are even more toxic in higher PH. Unlike many other African cichlids, it is not recommended to overstock this fish.
Multis Shelldweller
(Neolamprologus multifasciatus)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 10 gallon
Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH Hard
Maximum size: 1.5″-2″ Males, .75″-1″ Females
Tank region: Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality small cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Make sure to include veggies such as spirulina, spinach, and/or deshelled peas. Be sure to never overfeed.
Compatibility: Other shelldwellers, and smaller species with similar size and temperament, avoid overly aggressive tank mates or any tank mates that can eat them.
Extra: This spunky little shelldweller is thought to the smallest cichlid in the world, though it comes with a big personality. They are a fearless fish that will defend their territory ruthlessly making them a perfect choice for those who want to enjoy the fascinating behavior of cichlid on a smaller scale. Multis can be kept in a tank as small as 5 gallons for a single fish (though not recommended) or 10 gallons for a pair or a single male and a harem of 3 females. While this is the absolute minimum, they should ideally be kept in a larger aquarium, especially if you plan to house with other tank mates or more than one male. Shells should be provided and sand is recommended. They require highly oxygenated water and heavy filtration and regular water changes is recommended as this species can be sensitive to nitrates and ammonia which are even more toxic in higher PH. Unlike many other African cichlids, it is not recommended to overstock this fish.
Ocellated Shelldweller
(Lamprologus ocellatus)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 10 gallons
Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH Hard
Maximum size: 2.5″ males, 1.5″ females
Tank region: Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality small cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Make sure to include veggies such as spirulina, spinach, and/or deshelled peas. Be sure to never overfeed.
Compatibility: Other shelldwellers, smaller rock dwellers, and smaller species with similar size and temperament, avoid overly aggressive tank mates.
Extra: The Ocellated Shelldweller is one of the more popular and common species of shelldwellers. Though small, they are fierce and will fearlessly defend their territory from intruders such as their keeper’s hand while cleaning their aquarium. They are fairly hardy and more tolerant of water conditions than other shelldwellers making them an excellent choice for keepers looking to have a fascinating fish but may want a smaller aquarium. 10 gallons for a pair or a single male and a harem of 3 females. While this is the absolute minimum, they should ideally be kept in a larger aquarium, especially if you plan to house with other tank mates or more than one male. Shells should be provided and a 2″ sandbed is recommended. They require highly oxygenated water and heavy filtration and regular water changes is recommended as this species can be sensitive to nitrates and ammonia which are even more toxic in higher PH. Unlike many other African cichlids, it is not recommended to overstock this fish.
</a
Back to the top
Cichlids, Other
Kribensis
(Pelvicachromis pulcher)
←Back
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallon
Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 6.5-7.5
Maximum size: 4″ males, 3″ females
Tank region: Bottom to mid dwelling
Behavior: Semi aggressive, can be aggressive when breeding
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, mysis, spirulina, etc. Variety is important.
Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Barbs and larger tetras are good choice. Avoid slow moving fish such as angels, gouramis, and guppies.
Extra: Although the Kribensis is an African species of cichlid, they are found in the rivers and not the lakes. For this reason, their requirements are closer to that of the American cichlids. They are a hardy species and will accept a wide variety of water parameters as long as they aren’t too extreme, and they are fairly undemanding. They are a colorful dwarf 
cichlid, making them an attractive choice for beginners. Though individual personalities may vary, they are relatively peaceful unless they are breeding. Unless you are prepared to deal with their aggressive nature, I would recommend keeping Kribensis solo or with only the same gender to avoid forming a pair. Make sure to have lots of hiding and a cave is a must since these are a favorite among Kribensis.
Gourami
Blue Gourami
Dwarf Gourami
Dwarf Honey Gourami
Giant Gourami
Pearl Gourami
Pink Kissing Gourami
←Back
Blue Gourami
(Trichogaster trichopterus)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 20 gallon
Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.0-8.8
Maximum size: 4″
Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, conspecific aggression
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc
Compatibility: Most Communities, though recommended to keep with larger more similar sized species. Con-specific aggressive, particularly with males.
Extra: This medium sized gourami is hardy and adaptable fish, making it a great choice for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Dwarf gourami
(Colisa lalia)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 10 gallon
Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5
Maximum size: 2″
Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, shy
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc
Compatibility: Community. Like to be housed together, though adequate space should be given for two males. Avoid larger relatives and other fish that may bully them.
Extra: The dwarf gourami comes in a wide variety of colors such as neon, powder blue, and rainbow. They can add great color to any community tank and are relatively hardy making them a great option for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Dwarf gourami are prone to a disease called Iridovirus though, which about 22% of dwarf gourami have. It is still unclear why it occurs, but some gourami may be infected for years before succumbing to it. While it may be contagious to certain dwarf gourami, other fish are not at risk of this virus. Pearl gourami, thick lipped, banded, and other larger gourami are not affected by this disease.
Dwarf honey gourami
(Colisa chuna)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 10 gallon
Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5
Maximum size: 2″
Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc
Compatibility: Community. Like to be housed together, though adequate space should be given for two males. Avoid larger relatives and other fish that may bully them.
Extra: This dwarf gourami is hardy and adaptable fish, making it a great choice for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Giant Gourami
(Osphronemus goramy)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 200gallons+ for adults
Water parameters: 70F-85F, PH 6.5-8.0
Maximum size: 28″
Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling
Behavior: Generally mild mannered, con-specific aggressive
Diet: Omnivore. Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, worms, tubifex, mysis, etc and fresh fruits and veggies
Compatibility: Larger community
Extra: The giant gourami is the largest of the gourami species. There are a few different species all varying slightly in size, but all get massive. For this reason, the giant gourami is not a suitable choice for most fish keepers. The giant gourami are very personable and will recognize it’s owner with greeting and begging. These fish are omnivores and will eat both fruits and veggies, and live food such as frogs, worms, and smaller fish. Giant gourami are fairly mild mannered, though it seems that juveniles can be a bit feisty with some types of fish and will generally calm down as they mature. Like other gourami, they can get aggressive with one another, particularly the males. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Because of this labyrinth, they can deal with poor water quality fairly well but it’s extremely important to keep up with regular water changes as the giant gourami is highly susceptible to HITH (Hole in the Head disease.)
Pearl Gourami
(Trichogaster leeri)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallons
Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 6.5-8.0
Maximum size: 4″
Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc
Compatibility: Community. Like to be housed together, though adequate space should be given for two males. Avoid aggressive fish like cichlids.
Extra: This gourami is hardy and adaptable fish, making it a great choice for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Pink Kissing Gourami
(Helostoma temmincki)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 30 gallons, 50 gallons for larger species
Water parameters:
Maximum size: 6″ though they can get up to 12″
Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc
Compatibility: Other larger community fish. Should be monitored closely for bullying
Extra: The kissing gourami was named this because this species is known to kiss lips as a display for dominance. The PKG lacks the “feelers” like the other gouramis, but does possess the labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. The PKG can get aggressive at times and should be watched to ensure that it isn’t becoming a bully.
</a
Back to the top
Loach
Clown Loach
Banded Loach
Yoyo loach
←Back
Clown Loach
(Chromobotia macracanthus)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 100 gallons
Water parameters: 72F-86F, PH 6.0-7.5
Maximum size: 12″
Tank region: Bottom
Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling
Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept a variety of foods such as high quality sinking pellet or flake, bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc.
Compatibility: Most all peaceful or not overly aggressive species. Best kept in a group of 4 or more
Extra: The Clown Loach is a popular fish in the trade. With it’s fun personality, bold orange and black colors, and ability to take care of any snail problems; it’s obvious why. The Clown Loach isn’t necessarily a wise choice for beginners, however. While it has fairly low demands, it is particularly prone to diseases such as ich. While many may be deterred by this, think of the Clown Loach as your “indicator.” The Clown Loach will usually always be the first to tell you when something in your tank isn’t right. Whether it’s a temperature swing, water conditions are starting to suffer, or some other underlying issue that would otherwise be unnoticed. Unfortunately, since the Clown Loach is a scaleless fish, it can be intolerant of medications making it difficult to treat any disease that this fish is already prone to. It can also be quite common for Clown Loach to show ich whenever added to a new aquarium. So before you decide to treat your new additions, consider trying a less abrasive method first. A few good days of a generous amount of bloodworms/blackworms being careful not to allow water quality to diminish is usually all it takes to allow the Clown Loach to get back into tip top shape. While a full grown Clown will require a 100 gallon minimum, this fish is extremely slow growing and will realistically take a few years to reach such a size. For this reason, a clown loach under 4″ can work in a 40 gallon for some time and a 55 gallon long until they reach about 6″. This is a shoaling fish that I highly recommend keeping with at least 5 or more (though they’d love to be 10 or more,) and 3 being the absolute minimum.
Banded Loach
(Botia hymenophysa)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallons
Water parameters: 75F-83F, PH 6.5-7.5
Maximum size: 8.5″
Tank region: Bottom
Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling
Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept a variety of foods such as high quality sinking pellet or flake, bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc.
Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Use caution when housing with other bottom dwelling fish that can compete for territory. Best kept in groups of 5 or more
Extra: Also known as the Tiger Botia, the Banded Loach/Botia is part of the group of loaches that are known for being quite boisterous. As juveniles they can be somewhat peaceful; but as they get larger, they can become terrors if thought hasn’t gone into their care. They should be kept in a group of 5 or more to reduce aggression issues as well as plenty of hiding areas and territories to avoid competition. They make quick work of snails; and like other loach, they are sensitive to certain medications.
Yoyo loach
(Botia almorhae)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 20 gallon
Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 6.5-7.5
Maximum size: 3″
Tank region: Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling
Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept a variety of foods such as high quality sinking pellet or flake, bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc.
Compatibility: Community, best kept in a group of 3 or more
Extra: Looking at the YoYo Loach and you will quickly discover how they got their name. Along their bodies you will see the trademark “Y” “o” markings spelling out “yo.” This smaller species can reach upwards of 5″ though they are usually seen around 2.5″ in captivity. While they can be hardy if their needs are met, they may not be a great choice for beginners as they require pristine water conditions and can be prone to disease if these needs are not met. They should be kept in a group of 3 or more, though a group of 6 or more is more ideal. They are relatively peaceful and make a great choice for community tanks, though they can be seen squabbling amongst themselves in a fight for dominance. This is normal and typical behavior for these fish. They make quick work of snails; and like other loach, they are sensitive to certain medications.
</a
Back to the top
Oddball Fish
African Butterflyfish
Black Ghost Knifefish
Ctenopoma
Dragon Goby
Dwarf Pufferfish
Elephant nose
Flagfish
←Back
African Butterflyfish
(Pantodon buchholzi)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 20 gallon
Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5
Maximum size: 4″
Tank region: Top dwelling
Behavior: Generally peaceful, but will eat other fish especially top dwelling fish.
Diet: Can be trained to eat a variety of frozen, freezedried, or flake/pellet. Love insects and crickets.
Compatibility: Peaceful similar sized or larger sized fish. Avoid small fish it can eat. Avoid fin nipping fish that can harass the butterfly.
Extra: These oddballs are called butterflyfish because they slightly resemble a butterfly with their fins spread out and they also have the ability to jump out of the water and glide at the water’s surface. For this reason, it is extremely important to have a secure lid at all times. They like heavily decorated tanks, especially with floating plants they can hide in and moderate water flow. They can be quite finicky when it comes to food as well as sensitive to poor water quality giving them a 3/5 in difficulty.
Black Ghost Knifefish
(Apteronotus albifrons)
Difficulty: 4/5
Tank minimum: 100 gallons
Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.0-8.0
Maximum size: 20″
Tank region: Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Mild mannered, mostly conspecific aggressive
Diet: Carnivore based with live or frozen food such as bloodworms, blackworms, tubifex, mysis, brine, etc. May possibly accept pellets.
Compatibility: Other tankmates of similar size and temperament. Avoid small fish and invertebrates that can fit in this fish’s mouth. Avoid same species and relatives of the ghost knife.
Extra: The Black Ghost Knifefish is one of the more commonly available species part of this family. A little hardier than some of it’s relatives, it is still considered fairly difficult to care for. While part of the Apteronotus family, and have an electrical pulse similar to the mormyridae family. With this organ, they emit an electrical pulse to help them navigate. They are nocturnal and have poor eyesight which makes this organ especially helpful. Each species will emit a different frequency and even males’ and females’ will vary. Knifefish require moderate to low lighting, plenty of hiding, and a soft substrate. While this fish can be quite timid, with patience they can become comfortable and even interact with their keeper’s hands. Like other scaleless fish, they require pristine water conditions and have little to no tolerance for medications and salt, though the Black Ghost Knifefish has been known to be a little more tolerant than other species.
Ctenopoma
(Ctenopoma acutirostre)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 55 gallon
Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 6.5-7.5
Maximum size: 6″
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, predatory
Diet: Carnivore, can be trained to take pellet. Will eat frozen foods such as prawns, bloodworms, mussles, etc.
Compatibility: Similar sized or larger species of fish. Avoid small fish or overly aggressive fish
Extra: The leopard ctenopoma is an usual fish that most oddball collectors would love to keep. They are unbelievably hardy and have even impressed me with their durability. While they are generally peaceful with most tank mates , they can predate small fish. Surprisingly, their mouths can open much wider than some may realize which can be around the size of a quarter when extended. A unique behavior the ctenopoma exhibits is mimicking a leaf. This is done by the ctenopoma pointing it’s nose downward and curling it’s tail to the side to resemble a leaf, then it will float near an unsuspecting fish or bug and ambush. They also seem to do it as a defense mechanism. When my ctenopoma does it, I call it his “awkward leaf” dance as he’ll almost moonwalk out of the tricky situation.
Dragon Goby
(Gobioides broussonnetii)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 50 gallons
Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0, Brackish 1.005-1.008 sg
Maximum size: 2′
Tank region: Bottom
Behavior: Peaceful, con-specific Semi-aggressive
Diet: Frozen or live blackworms, bloodworms, daphnia, plankton, etc. Can be trained onto a quality pellet.
Compatibility: Community, avoid overly aggressive tank mates
Extra: This prehistoric looking fish isn’t quite as fierce as it’s appearance may lead to believe. The dragon goby is actually fairly mild mannered in nature, though they can be pushy if not given it’s own space. While it has a large mouth, it isn’t known for predating small fish and instead uses it’s large mouth to gulp in water to catch small food particles. While they are usually sold in the freshwater section, these are best kept brackish. They are perfectly fine starting off in freshwater, but in order for them to thrive and live a full life; it is recommended that they eventually have a low salinity. For this reason, it’s recommended to keep this fish with other species that are tolerant to mild brackish conditions. They can grow up to 2′ in the wild, but are usually seen closer to 15″ in captivity. In freshwater they grow much slower, as well. They should be kept on a sand substrate or avoid gravel with sharp edges that can injure the dragon goby’s soft belly. Weekly water changes are a must as this fish is incredibly sensitive to ammonia and will be seen gulping at the surface with even the smallest traces of ammonia present.
Dwarf Pufferfish
(Carinotetraodon travancoricus)
Difficulty: 3/5
Tank minimum: 10 gallon for single puffer, additional 5 gallons each additional
Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0
Maximum size: 1″
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, territorial
Diet: Snails, frozen and live foods such as blackworms, bloodworms, krill, brine, etc. Rarely will accept pellet or flake.
Compatibility: Best kept solo, but can work in community if given enough space. Avoid slow moving fish, long flowing fins, or overly aggressive fish.
Extra: The Dwarf Puffer, or Pea Puffer, is a true freshwater puffer and an irresistible little fish that many will be tempted to add to their aquariums. Before you impulsively purchase one of these charming creatures be aware of the challenges that lay ahead. While they only get up to a whopping 1″, they require more space than people realize, especially if keeping with tank mates. Even with plenty of space, they are still known for nipping at almost all of their neighbors once given the chance. Since tank mates can be a bit tricky, it may be best to keep this as a solo mini wet pet. If you do decide to take on the Pea Puffer, you will be rewarded with a comical and interactive fish that will entertain for hours. Unlike most puffers, they do not require snails to file down their teeth.
Back to the top
Elephant nose
(Gnathonemus petersii)
Difficulty: 4/5
Tank minimum: 40 gallon for single adult
Water parameters: 73F-80F, PH 6.5-7.0
Maximum size: 9″
Tank region: Bottom dwelling
Behavior: Peaceful, conspecific Semi-aggressive
Diet: Carnivore based diet of live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, tubifex, mysis, brine, blackworms, etc.
Compatibility: Community Avoid overly active tankmates that can outcompete for food. Avoid other mormyrids. Can be kept with peaceful cichlid, angel, smaller peaceful catfish, larger tetra.
Extra: The Elephant Nose is a unique fish that is fairly uncommon among fish keepers. Part of the mormyridae family, they can be distinguished by their long “trunks” used to scavenge for food. Like other mormyrid, they emit an electrical pulse to help them navigate. They are nocturnal and have poor eyesight which makes this organ especially helpful. Each morymrid will emit a different frequency and even males’ and females’ will vary. Morymrids require moderate to low lighting, plenty of hiding, and a soft sandy substrate. It is extremely important that these fish are kept on a soft sandy substrate because gravel and other hard substrates can damage and even break their “trunks”. While this fish can be quite timid, with patience they can become comfortable and even interact with their keeper’s hands. Like other mormyrids, these require pristine water conditions and have little to no tolerance for medications and salt.
Flagfish
(Jordanella floridae)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 10 gallon, 5 gallon for single pair
Water parameters: 65F-78F, PH 6.0-8.0
Maximum size: 2.5″
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Semi aggressive
Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, bloodworms, spirulina, etc. Algae should be included in their diet and needs to be supplemented if there is no algae present in aquarium.
Compatibility: Community, can become nippy with with some species of fish. Males can sometimes become aggressive with one another.
Extra: Named for their bright and colorful markings, the American Flag Fish is an extremely hardy and adaptable fish making it a wonderful choice for beginners. They make a great addition in community tanks, planted tanks, and ponds due to their diverse nature and tolerance. Often overlooked, they are a great choice for algae control that can surprise even the siamese algae eater and pleco! With their small size and hardy nature, they make a wonderful alternative to these choices.
</a
Back to the top
Paradisefish
←Back
(Macropodus opercularis)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 20 gallon
Water parameters: 61F-79F, PH 5.8-8.0
Maximum size: 4″ males, 3″ females
Tank region: All over, mostly top to mid dwelling
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, males conspecific aggressive
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Females can work in community. Males should be with larger, peaceful community. Avoid housing males together, this includes relatives such as the gourami
Extra: The Paradise Fish is one of the first fish ever kept in the hobby alongside the goldfish. The Paradise is part of the group of fish with the Labyrinth organ which allows them to gulp at the waters surface in oxygen depleted waters. They are extremely hardy and adaptable making them a great choice for beginners. Their beautiful colors and intelligence makes them an interesting addition for any keeper, as well. While females are fairly tolerant of tank mates, care should be given when housing a male. They can be fairly aggressive towards other males of the same species, relatives, and other fish they just may not take a liking to. Due to the thought needed when choosing tank mates; the Paradise fish is rated 2/5 to an otherwise perfectly easy fish.
Shark
Bala shark
Rainbow shark
Red tail shark
←Back
Bala shark
(Balantiocheilos melanopterus)
Difficulty: 1/5
Tank minimum: 75 gallons
Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-7.8
Maximum size: 16″
Tank region: Mid dwelling
Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling
Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc.
Compatibility: Community, avoid species small enough for them to eat. Great choice as target/dither fish in American Cichlid tanks
Extra: The Bala Shark is a popular fish in the hobby, especially with children due to their similar appearance to shark. Even though, they are called the Bala Shark, they aren’t a shark at all! While they make a great choice for beginners due to their hardy nature, they aren’t suitable for those beginners starting their first smaller tank. These cute little guys will grow up to a foot and a half and they will do so quickly! They are a shoaling and active species and should be in a group of 3 or more (ideally more) and therefore a 75 gallon is the absolute minimum with a 125-180 gallon being much more practical.
Rainbow shark
(Epalzeorhynchos frenatum)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 50 gallons
Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5
Maximum size: 6″
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, con-specific aggressive
Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, mysis, spirulina, algae wafers, etc.
Compatibility: Semi-aggressive community. Avoid same species or similar looking species. Does best with larger, active schooling fish. can pick on bottom dwelling species such as catfish.
Extra: While they may resemble a shark, the Rainbow Shark is not actually a shark at all! This attractive fish makes a great addition to many semi-aggressive aquariums, though thought should still be given to tank mates. Often mistaken for it’s relative, the Red Tail Shark, it tends to be somewhat more mild mannered. There are a few ways to distinguish the two, but the easiest would be their fin colors. The Rainbow will have all red fins, and the Red Tail will only have it’s tail red with the rest black. While the Rainbow does best as the only shark in the tank, it can be kept with other Rainbows as long as there is at least 55 gallons and a minimum of 6 together. If there aren’t more than 6 of these the aggression will not be evenly displaced and one fish may become over-bullied.
Back to the top
Red tail shark
(Epalzeorhynchos bicolor)
Difficulty: 2/5
Tank minimum: 50 gallons
Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5
Maximum size: 6″
Tank region: All over
Behavior: Semi-aggressive, cons-pecific aggressive
Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, mysis, spirulina, algae wafers, etc.
Compatibility:Semi-aggressive community. Avoid same species or similar looking species. Does best with larger, active schooling fish. can pick on bottom dwelling species such as catfish.
Extra: While they may resemble a shark, the Red Tail Shark is not a shark at all! Often mistaken with the Rainbow Shark, the Red Tail is known for being more aggressive. There are a few ways to distinguish the two, but the easiest would be their fin colors. The Rainbow will have all red fins, and the Red Tail will only have it’s tail red with the rest black. The Red Tail is also usually smaller than the Rainbow measuring usually around 4″, though they can reach up to 6″. It is recommended to not house this species with any other sharks or similar looking species as they can become quite aggressive.
Your Guide To Everything Animal 
Leave a comment