It was early in the morning and the streets of Rouen were quiet when I arrived. A small number of tourists mingled with the locals as I made my way past the Cathedral towards the market square. Blue sky was making sporadic appearances through dense white cloud and despite being Spring, the temperature was cool. I pulled my jacket lapels closer around my chest to ward off the cool breeze as I walked. The streets of Rouen are so pretty - the half-timber medieval buildings lean out over the street in multiple levels as they careen upwards, the dark brown timber zigzagging over the cream coloured panels of plaster. Wrought iron Juliet balconies feature on the pastel toned stone buildings.
As I continue my stroll into town, an ornate archway spans across the street ahead of me. It is bedecked with rooms and with a turret like a mini castle gateway and it features a highly decorated large gilded clock. This astronomical clock is set on the renaissance arch spanning the busy street of rue du Gros-Horloge and has done so since 1527. The clock's two faces are of golden sunbeams against either a vibrant sky and is decorated with allegorical characters: Diane as the moon (Monday), Mars (Tuesday), Mercury (Wednesday), Jupiter (Thursday), Venus (Friday), Saturn (Saturday) and Apollo (Sunday). The clock is a beautiful thing, intricate and eye catching due to its golden splendor. As I pass under the archway I admire the sculptures that decorate it. The coat of arms of Rouen is found at the centre of the archway featuring the lamb of God on a red background and oddly, one of the angels heads is twisted around at an unusual angle. Apparently the angel represents the discontent of the workers at the time, the city's leaders may have wished they had treated the workers better when they finally saw the completed sculpture!
I hear the sound of people laughing before I see what causes the hilarity - medieval styled mummers, or street performance artists, are dressed in colorful fashion and with dark beak like masks obscuring their faces. There was much jumping around and wild gestures from the performers which had the small audience both entranced and engaged. White stocking legs stuck out from pantaloons of red or brown while their bodies are swathed in black cloaks or flower embroidered purple silk jackets. While I could not understand their French, their body language helped tell the story but I had no time to enjoy the entertainment. I was on my way to something more serious - the location where Joan of Arc was burnt at the stake.
That Joan of Arc is a key french Femmes Illustres is patently obvious. As I explore France, there are many signs of her influence and presence to be found. Statues to St. Joan feature in many chapels and Cathedrals and books mythologizing her story are still best sellers in the stores. Joan was accused of over 70 crimes including witchcraft, heresy and for dressing like a man. Joan would not be the last woman to be condemned for witchcraft, that broad stroke of misogynistic fear that swept through the middle ages and beyond claiming the lives of wise or elderly women in particular. Her most significant crime of course was to lead to victory the French army of Charles of Valois (Charles VII) against the English so when she was captured by the Anglo-Burgundian forces, her fate was sealed.
At Rouen, her presence is made profound by the 65 foot tall spire topped with a cross, marking the spot where she was put to death. It is the Cross of Rehabilitation, named for the process of restoring her good name. In the town square, the Place du Vieux-Marché, gardens surround the site and archaeological remains are visible where ancient public buildings were once located. The new church of St Joan of Arc is built next to the large cross which stands on the exact spot of the stake. The church stands in contrast to historic centre of Rouen and its strangely shaped slate tiled roof is supposed to represent the flames that engulfed Joan. I stand close to the spire and reflect upon the violence of the scene that unfolded here, of Joan's last moments and of the commitment to God which was her foundation. On the morning of May 30, 1431 at the age of 19, Joan was burned at the stake. The clouds disappear briefly and I look up at the blue sky. Was the sky her final view of the world? Did she look upwards to the sky and perhaps God or down to the flames that engulfed her? I find it hard to imagine that day - the sound of the flames and crowds, of the acrid smell of smoke and burning flesh. Twenty years after Joan's death, a new trial was held and Charles VII cleared her name. In 1909 Joan of Arc was beatified in the famous Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris by Pope Pius X and then canonised in 1920.
Today Rouen is peaceful and quiet. It is Sunday and while many of the shops are closed, fortunately the restaurants are open and keen for business. It was a difficult decision - the Michelin starred La Couronne, dated to 1345 was offering an enticing menu however with price tags of 45 Euros for a main, I looked elsewhere. In a half timbered building, soft french grey and blue in colour, I discover local deliciousness. O'Baristo presented fois gras and chablis for my lunch and I sat back reveling in the gourmet delights. Three rounds of fois gras with toast, a quince style paste on the side for acidity and a few crunchy sweet potato crisps. Gazing past my fellow diners and through the window to outside, it could still be 1345 from what I could take in of the view. Time travelling indeed.
In the 1890's Monet painted 30 pictures of Rouen cathedral, attempting to capture the building in all different light and weather conditions and it is an incredible series of paintings of just one location over time. For Monet the effects of light on a subject became as important as the subject itself.
The Gothic Cathedral we see today is the third building at this location. Nothing exists of the first and of the second, there remains the crypt. The current Cathedral was severely damaged in April, 1944 from bombing in WW2. Fortunately it was able to be rescued and restored. Walking towards the Cathedral after lunch was the most beautiful time of the day during my visit to Rouen. The sun shone brightly lending some warmth to the day and the light made the stone of the church glow as I approached. The facade of the Cathedral is highly ornate. Multiple spires point to the sky and two tall towers (though not symmetrical) are situated on each side of the entrance which is flanked by multiple statues.
Walking into the Cathedral one is struck by the immense size and weight of the stone columns and arches that disappear into the distance of the nave towards the Lady Chapel. Walking down the side passageway of the nave, the sun illuminated the small side chapels while the stained glass windows reflected patterns of blue and gold onto the heavily worn stone floor. In 1939, upon the initiative of Jean Lafond, almost all the stained-glass windows in Rouen were removed from the churches and historic buildings and kept safe until the end of the war. This ensured that Rouen Cathedral today has stained-glass windows dating from as far back as 1210.
One of the most famous attractions inside Rouen Cathedral is the Chapelle de la Vierge or “Lady Chapel”, which houses numerous tombs ranging from Norman dukes and French monarchs to religious leaders. It is rarely open to the public. Amongst the tombs of the Chapel lies the English King, Richard the Lion Heart – or at least that of his heart for the rest of him is located in Fontevraud Abbey in Anjou. On the left wall of the chapel is the tomb of Louis de Brézé. Louis was the seneschal of Normandy but is now better known for being the husband of Diane de Poitiers who became the favorite mistress of Henri II after her husband’s death. Just outside and to the left of the Chapel is the grave of Hugues d’Amiens who died in 1164 as the Bishop of Rouen. His body was placed in a tomb from the 12th century and is believed to have the oldest recumbent tomb statue (gisant) in France.
Here too, St Joan is remembered in her own chapel at the south end of the cathedral. A modern statue features Joan tied to the stake, her chains wrap around her as a flame licks its way at the hem of her gown. She holds a cross to her heart. A display board tells the story of Joan the Martyr nearby. It seems a stark representation of her final moments and for me, it failed to provide me with real emotional impact given the beauty of the chapel and stained glass windows around the statue. What I did find beautiful was the old wrought iron stand displaying St Joan candles; small plastic votives of red or blue that were lit in remembrance and in prayer at her chapel. They emanated a soft flickering light that I found touching.
I was not expecting to find Vikings within Rouen Cathedral though I did! Olaf Haraldson, also identified as St Olaf (995-1030) was a pagan Viking who converted to Christianity and was baptised in Rouen Cathedral in 1014. Olaf, known as Olaf the Fat, ruled as King of Norway and is considered to be the founder of the Norwegian nation. A relic of St Olaf, the patron saint of Norway, was donated by the Bishop of Oslo to the Cathedral in 2014. A small replica Viking longship is displayed in St Olaf's chapel and behind glass, the reliquary, bound in gold, sits with a backdrop of red silk behind glass. Try as hard as I can, I cannot discover what the relic actually is. Is it a splinter of bone or perhaps hair? The mighty Viking warrior Rollo is also entombed here at Rouen though what remains of him is only his femur. Rollo is the founder and first ruler of the Viking principality which became known as Normandy and the Dukes of Normandy were traditionally crowned here at Rouen.
Now it is time to leave Rouen and continue my journey towards the picturesque harbour of Hornfluer and an overnight stop in the resort seaside town of Deauville.