How to Re-Twist Your Own Locs, According to Expert Locticians

Whether you've been on your loc journey for 10 years or you're just getting started, anyone with this style can agree on one thing: It's a commitment. Wash days can be a bit longer, and you'll need to re-twist your locs every three to six weeks, depending on how long you've had them.

Typically, most people would visit their loctician or a general hairstylist to let the pros work their magic with locs that need a re-twist. However, sometimes you don't have money or time to do so.

We spoke with master cosmetologist and loctician Vernice Samuels and natural hairstylist Stasha Harris to create a step-by-step tutorial on re-twisting your locs from the comfort of your own home.

How to Prep Hair

Samuels and Harris agreed you'll need to start on a clean canvas. "Shampoo the roots and shaft thoroughly, around two to three times," said Samuels, "or once or twice for starter locs."

Next, you'll want to condition and oil the hair to add moisture and seal in hydration. 

"While the conditioner is in your hair, separate each loc to ensure that it does not matte together," Harris suggested.

After this step, you should thoroughly rinse your hair ,then allow it to air dry for at least three hours.

 "Afterward, add some oil to your locs, and you'll be ready to go," Harris added.

What Tools and Products to Use

You'll need a twisting butter or gel, double prong clips to hold the hair in place, and a hooded dryer to thoroughly dry the locs. If you don't have a hooded dryer, you can also use a blow dryer. However, the process will be more strenuous.

In terms of twisting products, Samuels recommended the Sweet Moisture Natural Hair Butter from her salon, while Harris is a fan of Shine 'n Jam Magic Fingers.

How to Re-Twist Locs

If you have starter locs, you won't necessarily need to start at any particular spot. Simply apply your twisting butter or gel to the new growth, then use your index finger to twist your hair to the right. Samuels instructed clipping down each loc as you finish, then sitting under the dryer until the hair is fully dry "to prevent any mildew odor from developing."

For those with longer hair, you'll want to begin at the nape and work upwards. Start by applying your twisting butter or cream throughout the section of hair. Then, take each loc and apply the product directly to the roots, using a comb to distribute it through the new growth.

Afterwards, "using your thumb and pointer finger, pinch the base of each loc and twist in a clockwise motion until all your new growth is tightened," said Harris. "To secure the twist, you can use a double-prong silver clip or twist the loc until it creates a little bantu knot at the base."

If you want a different finish, the stylist suggested another technique: "Twist two locs together like a double strand twist; you will get two styles in one," Harris advised. "Use a small black rubber band to secure the end of the double strand twist. Upon removal of the twist, once it is kept on for at least a day, it will have waves or curls. Repeat those steps on your entire head until you're done." 

Once you've gone through your entire head of hair, make sure to sit under the dryer.

The Process

If this is your first time, it could take three to five hours. However, if you've re-twisted your locs on your own before, it may be a quicker process. Thankfully, you don't necessarily have to do it all at once. 

"You can do this all in one sitting or opt to do it in sections while taking breaks in between," said Harris.

It may also be a good idea to video call your loctician as you begin so they can get you started on the right track. You can also search for tutorials online.

How to Maintain Locs

"You should moisturize your locs every other day," Harris suggested. 

She recommended using your favorite hair oil in a spray bottle or a product that comes with a nozzle to cover hard-to-reach areas.

You should also protect the hair while you're sleeping. 

"Cover locs with a loc soc, satin, or satin-like material to preserve the moisture in your hair," Samuels said. 

This will help keep the hair smooth and soft, and it'll prevent unraveling.

This is All Natural. From the kinkiest coils to loose waves, we're celebrating natural hair in its many forms by sharing expert tips for styling, maintenance, and hair care.