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Speedometer Wiring Diagram?
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Raggamuffin
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 6:28 am    Post subject: Speedometer Wiring Diagram? Reply with quote

Speedometer was removed in my 71 Super for paint. Wires were painted along with the tape showing where they went. Does anyone have a simple diagram showing which color goes where?

I've shecked Chilton, Bentley and Muir and I'm still confused!

Thanks
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laug6615
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

See if this helps.
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Raggamuffin
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seriously, you're my freakin' HERO!

Thanks a MILLION! You guys are great.
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joebennettPA
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome!
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a great diagram!

I'm not quite grasping the relationship between #1 and #11. Basically, my fuel gauge isn't wired at all and I only have 1 sheathed wire coming from the fuel sender at the tank.

Wiring the #1 to a ignition switched power should be no problem but what's the relationship to #11?

Old post but maybe I'll get some interest. Wink
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MK5GOLFGTI
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is how all wiring diagrams should be in a Laymans service manual!
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jhoefer
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

beetlejc wrote:
What a great diagram!

I'm not quite grasping the relationship between #1 and #11. Basically, my fuel gauge isn't wired at all and I only have 1 sheathed wire coming from the fuel sender at the tank.

Wiring the #1 to a ignition switched power should be no problem but what's the relationship to #11?

Old post but maybe I'll get some interest. Wink


#1 is switched power to the fuel gauge vibrator, #11 is switched power to the oil pressure, alternator, and turn signal warning lights. Power from the fuse box normally goes to #1, then there is a short jumper wire from #1 to #11.

If you don't have the vibrator grounded through its mounting tab as shown and you power #1 you can potentially burn up your fuel gauge.
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mrbigmax
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of your lights in your car are wired +12 volts-> switch -> light -> ground.
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The indicator lights are wired +12 volts-> light -> switch -> ground.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The indicator lights need +12 volts at the light and they ground through their respective switches: oil pressure switch, voltage regulator and turn signal switch. The relationship between #1 & #11 is that they need +12 volts at the part for them to function.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhoefer wrote:
beetlejc wrote:
I'm not quite grasping the relationship between #1 and #11. Basically, my fuel gauge isn't wired at all and I only have 1 sheathed wire coming from the fuel sender at the tank.

Wiring the #1 to a ignition switched power should be no problem but what's the relationship to #11?


#1 is switched power to the fuel gauge vibrator, #11 is switched power to the oil pressure, alternator, and turn signal warning lights. Power from the fuse box normally goes to #1, then there is a short jumper wire from #1 to #11.

Some background....
Beetles with a 10-fuse fuse box.... switched ignition 12v powered fuses #1 & #2.
Beetles with a 12-fuse fuse boxes... switched ignition 12v powered fuses #11 & #12.

So depending on which fuse box you have your fuel gauge/vibrator and trio of indicator lamps could be wired to different numbered fuses, but they should be wired to the same pair. In some early cases the trio of indicator lamps were powered by the unprotected (input) side of the fuse.


I think there is one error in the above diagram. At the fuel gauge (terminal #1) it mentions a red wire from B+. This is the constant 12v from the battery/VR. Your gauges should not be connected to this source; they would drain your battery while the ignition was OFF. As mentioned, there may be a jumper between terminals #11 & #1, and then a wire running to the switched fuse(s) at the fuse box. Some years may have had individual wires running back to the fuse box, but always to the fuse powered by switched ignition.
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